Using the Julian Roberts Subtraction Technique

The requirements are:
                                  2 Meters of plain fabric
                                  2 Meters of printed fabric (Woven) Light/Medium.
                                  1 Meter of lining fabric
 Equipment:
                                  Pattern master
                                  Eraser
                                  Pencil
                                  Camera
                                  Fabric Scissor & Paper Scissor
                                  Pattern cutting Paper
                                  Chalk
                                  Pins


In a pair of two I started the step by step Subtraction technique.

The first thing we did was to find the hip measurement of an average woman, which was 96-98cm. We increased the measurement to 100cm full scale. Because full scale is so big we changed the measurement to half scale which is 50cm.
The next step was to draw a circle with a 50cm circumference. To find the radius we used the sum of 50÷6.28=7.9


I used my pattern master to draw a cross on pattern cutting paper. From the middle cross there the two lines meet we used the 7.9 radius to draw the circumference accurately. My class mate used the pattern master to create 0.5 seam allowance to go inside the circle. The circle was then cut to be left with 7.2 radius.

The image on the left is print fabric. The measurements are 40cm wide half scale and 120cm long (half scale). The image on the right is plain fabric. The measurements are 40cm (half scale) and 120cm long half scale. The two fabrics are sewn together using a 0.5cm seam allowance to create a pillow case appearance leaving one opening on the width. My team mate then pressed the seams flat with a steam iron to stop any creasing in the fabric for the next transformation.

The subtraction technique is taking place in the images above. There is a front & Back bodice, me and my team mate traced and cut out bodices making sure to finish at the waist. We then placed the bodices on the fabric. To do the subtraction technique we placed the front and back neckline facing each other with chalk I drew around the bodices. We used chalk to draw a line starting from the back waistline to the front waistline this was done to the other side as well. The negative area marked x was cut with fabric scissors to leave holes in the print fabric.


We did the same technique with a circle pattern this time tracing it 4 times. With chalk I marked two circles (A) and two circles (B) I cut them out with fabric scissors to be left with holes in the print fabric. After that me and my team mate sewed the front and back side fabric together to leave a seam of 0.5cm, we used the steam iron to press the seams flat. We then moved on to join the two circles marked (A) wrong sides together leaving a 0.5cm seam allowance, this was then sewn together, the same was done for the circles (B). Once the circles were sewn I turned the garment through so see the effect that was created from the circles. I then turned my attention back to the bodice but first I had to do a tracing of the garment from the bodice and then hem back and front. Tracing was used for the lining fabric.

Once the lining fabric was cut and I sewed the parts together I then attached the lining using pins to the armhole fabric, wrong side together then sewed the fabric together using a 0.5cm seam allowance. This process was done on the other side armhole. To finish the bodice I turned the garment inside out to join the shoulder of the fabric to the shoulder of the lining fabric. This was done by slipping through the shoulder of the lining into the shoulder of the fabric I then sewed them together with a 0.5cm seam allowance across. After I pulled through the lining and the garment onto the right side so that the stitches could be hidden on the inside leaving the hems to be overlocked to finish the entire garment.

These are the images of the garment finished. The images on the left shows the side view detail of the garment which is the printed fabric on the top of the garment and plain fabric has been manipulated to create wonderful folds. The image on the left shows a front view of the garment on a manikin. The lining is not seen because it is on the inside of the garment.

My garment is hanging with other garments to feature a display of our achievements in subtraction pattern cutting in one day.